Tailor Made Holidays to Peru

Here, I am going to demonstrate a real life example of how we put together our own two week holiday to Peru. I will reveal the thought processes behind every decision, show you what we ended up with, and finally, a review of the trip having come home.

First, I created a list of the sights and experiences that I wanted to incorporate.

NOTE
In all my itineraries for both my own holidays and for customers, I try and include as many 'special' experiences as possible. This might mean a walk around the streets of a quaint town, taking in all the sights and smells of the local shops, or it might mean having a coffee looking down on a buzzing scene. When you look back on a holiday in six months time, it is the little experiences you remember, more so than the 'sights' that the guide books tell you to see.

List of places and experiences in Peru that I wanted to see and do

1. Machu Picchu - when is best to see it?
2. Lake Titicaca - possibly to stay on one of the islands
3. Train Journeys - there are two spectacular lines - one from Cuzco to Machu Picchu, and another from Cuzco to Puno (for Lake Titicaca)
4. Amazon rainforest
5. Nazca Lines - only visible by air
6. Colca Canyon and Arequipa - for the condors
7. Sacred Valley - stunning scenery
8. Cuzco - Inca heartland

OK, so let's look at these in more detail and try to piece together a two week itinerary.

NOTE
To start with, I am intending a minimum of 2 nights in each place. This means one FULL day in each place, where you don't have to travel. That means less rushing around, giving time to take everything in.

Machu Picchu

There are basically two ways to get to Machu Picchu - the 4 day or 5 day Inca Trail Trek, or the easy way - by train and bus! If I had a month, then I would research the Inca Trail, but with just two weeks, I don't have the time.

You can get there and back in a day from Cuzco, but the best time to visit is first thing in the morning. The light is better, and there are far fewer crowds. So it is essential to stay as close as possible the night before.

Did you know? Machu Picchu was only discovered in 1911

There is a hotel right by the ruins called Sanctuary Lodge, but doesn't come cheap, so lets look for an alternative in Aguas Calientes which is the closest village to Machu Picchu. I love the look of Inkaterra, especially its location in a cloud forest, and the little whitewashed cottages you stay in. Ok, there's probably cheaper options but as this is going to be the highlight of the trip, I'll go for this one.

The plan is to get an early tourist bus from the village (it takes about 20-30 minutes) - they start from 05.30, and be there before the crowds. If I can see sunrise it would be quite amazing.

Intention: 2 nights at Inkaterra Machu Picchu

Lake Titicaca

The things I want to do here are to take a boat trip on the lake, see the colourfully dressed Uros Indians, and visit the floating reed islands.

The air here is said to be remarkably clear, and the blue of the sea very intense. As you sail away from Puno, the snow capped mountains of Bolivia come into view.

It would be nice to visit Taquile Island which has no electricity and no cars, just beautiful views everywhere!

Did you know? At 12,000 feet, Lake Titicaca is the world's highest navigable lake

The main town here is Puno, set by the lake, and of course there are hotels, but let's try and find a hotel on one of the islands.

Hotel Libertador seems a good choice, but I love the character of a place called Suasi Lodge. It is probably more simple accommodation than some other hotels, but has a wonderful location on tiny Suasi Island. And all the trips are possible - Taquile Island, floating islands etc.

Intention: 2 nights at Suasi Island

Train Journeys

i) Cuzco to Machu Picchu

The journey from Cuzco to Machu Picchu stops at Ollantaytambo in the Sacred Valley, and as this is such a beautiful region it definitely deserves at least 1 night here.

The most luxurious train is the Hiram Bingham, owned by Orient Express. But if you are at all budget conscious then go for the next best which is the Vistadome. And this is a nice alternative - large panoramic windows mean great views all the way.

So I will do this in two stages - Cuzco to Ollantaytambo (for the Sacred Valley) and then the next day Ollantaytambo to Machu Picchu.

ii) Cuzco to Puno (Lake Titicaca)

This is far better than flying - although it takes several hours, it is one of the world's most spectacular train journeys. Note that this journey can also be done by tourist bus - again far more exciting and memorable than flying.

Amazon Rainforest

There is lots of wildlife here, so the question is how much can you expect to actually see up close?

As well as colourful macaws and parrots which live near the clay licks, there are caimans, sloths, turtles, giant otters, bat falcons, howler monkeys, and tapirs. There are nature walks with expert guides, and boat and canoe trips.

Did you know? The Peruvian Amazon boasts the most species of birds in the world

Well it soon becomes clear that accommodation here is quite rustic - few lodges have electricity or hot water, so there is going to be a trade off between wildlife viewing and comfort.

A few options:

• Lake Sandoval seems to be a beautiful setting
• Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica Lodge has the most comfortable accommodation
• Tambopata Research centre is right next to one of the world's biggest clay licks. It makes for an amazing spectacle with the brightly coloured macaws, but the accommodation is very basic.

Intention: 3 nights at Lake Sandoval - a compromise on price and quality.

Nazca Lines

These can only be seen by sightseeing trips by small aircraft. The nearest town is Ica, and the base for the night.

But it is about 4 hours drive from Lima, by either private car or the much cheaper public bus, so it is really something you have to want to see.

These mysterious lines are believed to date from 400BC and even now no-one is exactly sure why they are there, although you can see the representation of birds and animals.

Did you know? The Nazca lines were made out of dirt and rocks.

They journey itself passes through desert scenery, and the Ballestas Islands are close by. You take a boat out to see sea lions, but there are also many gannets and pelicans, plus dolphins are often spotted.

Intention: 2 nights in Ica

Arequipa and Colca Canyon

Arequipa is known as the white city because of the colour of the local rock used to make most of the buildings.

It is a tranquil, peaceful city surrounded by mountains and snow capped volcanoes. The highlight is a visit to the Monasterio de Santa Catalina, almost a city within a city. There are still a couple of dozen nuns who live there. The best way to see it is to wander around the narrow streets - you'll see little courtyards and plazas.

Did you know? The Colca Canyon is TWICE as deep as the Grand Canyon in the USA.

The Colca Canyon is impressive - some parts of it claim to be the deepest canyon in the world. And here you can see the flying condor. Along the way it would be nice to bathe in the hot springs at Chivay, and to stop in one of the villages for a glimpse of the local life.

The road to get here is quite spectacular - you drive past volcanoes and wild llama.

Intention: 2 nights at Casa Andina Private Collection (for the rooms full of character and the lovely courtyard - also perfect location).

Then 1 night at Colca Lodge - for the best location.

Sacred Valley

The 16 mile Sacred Valley is the beautiful region between Cuzco and Ollantaytabmo (en-route to Machu Picchu) with many points of interest.

There are hundreds of salt pans at Salinas, some hot springs, and generally great views.

The major Inca fortress at Ollantaytabmo is a must - you'll see a great example of the steep Inca terracing.

Intention: 1 night at Ollantaytambo

Cuzco

Cuzco was the centre of the Inca Empire and still has many architectural remains, and is now the base for trips to the Amazon Rainforest and to Machu Picchu. It is also where you journey to or from Lake Titicaca. Whatever itinerary you do, you'll need a few nights here due to the flight schedules and sometimes to acclimatise.

Cuzco was a scared city to the Incas, and believed to be the centre of the world. You'll still see the massive Inca built stone walls. The cathedral in the main square is worth a visit, as too are the impressive ruins at Sacsayhuaman just outside the town.

Putting it all together

Ok, so here is an example detailed itinerary:

Saturday	Fly to Lima, arrive that evening. One night in Lima required as there's no time to get anywhere else.
Sunday	Visit the Nazca Lines and the Ballestas Islands - 2 nights.
Tuesday	Back to Lima for 1 night.
Wednesday	Fly to Arequipa - 2 nights.
Friday	Travel to Colca Canyon for 2 nights.
Sunday	Fly to Juliaca (for Lake Titicaca). 2 nights at Lake Titicaca
Tuesday	Train or bus to Cuzco. 1 night in Cuzco
Wednesday	Train to Ollantaytambo in the Sacred Valley. 1 night in the Sacred Valley
Thursday	Train to Machu Picchu. 1 night at Machu Picchu
Friday	Train back to Cuzco 1 night in Cuzco
Saturday	Fly to Puerto Maldonado and the gateway to the Amazon. 3 nights at Lake Sandoval
Tuesday	Back to Cuzco for 1 night.
Wednesday	Fly to Lima and then back to London.
Thursday	Arrive in the UK, several days later than planned!

The problem is, after leaving one place, you need one night before going somewhere else. This is because of flight schedules, and the fact that it is always best to take morning flights. Afternoon flights can often be cancelled if the weather is not right.

So for a two week holiday, we need to cut something out.

Here is what actually happened:

Saturday	Fly to Lima, arrive that evening. One night in Lima required
Sunday	Fly to Juliaca (for Lake Titicaca). 2 nights at Lake Titicaca
Tuesday	Bus to Cuzco. 1 night in Cuzco
Wednesday	Train to Ollantaytambo in the Sacred Valley. 1 night in the Sacred Valley
Thursday	Train to Machu Picchu. 1 night at Machu Picchu
Friday	Train back to Cuzco. 2 nights in Cuzco
Sunday	Fly to Puerto Maldonado and the gateway to the Amazon. 3 nights at Lake Sandoval
Wednesday	Fly to Lima and then back to the UK
Thursday	Arrive back in the UK

So I cut out the Nazca Lines, Arequipa and Colca Canyon and instead spent longer in the other places.

This meant we travelled to 3 main places:

1. Lake Titicaca
2. Machu Picchu
3. Amazon Rainforest

The typical cost for this is £2500 to £3500 per person depending upon time of year and hotels used.

Tips

• Cuzco is at altitude, so ideally plan not to go here first allowing you to acclimatise. But if you do go here first, take it easy for the first day. Green Tea is served all over the place - its popular, healthy, and good for altitude.
• There is a lot of travelling involved, so don't try to cram too much in too little time.
• Please book as early as possible - flights get more expensive the later you leave it.
• Go in June for the vibrant and colourful festivals all over Peru. 23 and 24 June are usual dates.
• The best weather is May to October. It can rain between January and March.

What you can do differently to the tailor made Peru itinerary above

• If you have more time, then you can fit it more places in Peru:
  - Spend more time in Lima - there are sights such as the Bridge of Sighs, museums and art galleries.
  - Nazca Lines and the Ballestas Islands
  - Arequipa and the Colca Canyon
• If you are more active then you can do the Inca Trail. It is a challenging 4 day trek, but is rewarded in the most amazing manner by arriving at Machu Picchu at dawn. Along the way, you'll pass stunning mountain scenery, stop at Inca ruins and spend the nights in camps. Please book early as permits are extremely limited.

  You can do a day's hike to Machu Picchu, arriving in the afternoon. It takes 4-6 hours.

• Cruise on the Amazon - the MV Aqua is a luxury river cruise boat where you can enjoy daily excursions with expert guides, wildlife viewing from the observation deck, night safaris, jungle walks, and of course great food and wine. You may spot pink river dolphins along the way. 3 nights on full board costs around £1800 per person.
• Travel into Bolivia - Salar de Uyuni is a brilliant white salt flat, and the world's largest.
• You can opt to have a guide included if you wish
• For the trip of a lifetime why not add a Galapagos islands cruise?
• Stay in luxury hotels all the way through

Tailor made holiday to Peru - The Review

In terms of the travel arrangements within Peru, everything worked smoothly, and the itinerary worked well. We were in Peru for the Inti Raymi Inca festival (24 June), and the processions were an added bonus to the trip.

Machu Picchu was truly amazing, and by getting there first thing, we avoided the crowds. Only when we came out a few hours later and saw the queues o get in did it dawn on us just how crowded it can get.

The Uros Islands on Lake Titicaca were a surprise highlight - although a little commercial, you learnt a lot about the culture and why they live on floating islands. It really does feel very spongy underneath. Lake Titicaca does have a very intense blue. If you can stay on the lake, or by it in Puno then it's very worthwhile.

The Amazon was very much as expected. Birds are in the distance, and so it is best to borrow the lodges binoculars. Howler monkeys can be heard in the jungle but are difficult to see. Sunrises and sunsets were spectacular.

As I am very keen on wildlife and photography, I might have forgone what luxuries we had at Sandoval and stayed close to a clay lick to see the macaws. However the boat trips at dusk were serene and magical - the jungle wakes up, you hear all the noises and spot caimans in the water. We saw many turtles. The night walks were excellent and informative.

The one downside we had was the flights - we travelled via the USA as there was a very good deal on, but the changes meant it was a very tiring journey home. In retrospect we both wish we had booked the quickest and easiest route, i.e. via Madrid.

We did not see much of Lima but somehow managed to get a completely traffic free run all the way to the hotel. It turns out the president was in front and all side coming traffic had been stopped!

Cuzco is at altitude but as long as you take it easy, there is little to worry about. If you run around then you will get a headache! I loved sitting on the balcony of one of the many cafes in Cuzco overlooking the main square. It was a great view of everything going on, as well as enjoying the good food and of course, green tea.

Aguas Calientes (now called Machu Picchu Village) was a place I'll never forget. This is the last village before Machu Picchu, and most people arrive on the train, as we did, as it is the last stop on the train line before Machu Picchu. What amused me was that as soon as we got off and the train left the station, a huge market suddenly sprung up on the train tracks. It stays there until the next train arrives, when they pack up, move away, and move back again as soon as the train leaves!

Finally, there is no end of photo opportunities with llamas. The best are the ones roaming wild at Machu Picchu. But if you don't get them there, there will be many colourfully dressed locals who would be happy to pose with a llama for you, for a small tip of course!

I would welcome any comments on how you'd go about designing a tailor made holiday to peru.

To get a quote for one of our tailor made holidays to peru, please call me on 01462 677 111.